FIRST NIGHT: THEATRE

Review: Waitress, Adelphi Theatre, WC2

Treat yourself to a slice of five-star pie
Katharine McPhee, centre, Marisha Wallace, left, and Laura Baldwin serve up a surprisingly gritty and moving performance
Katharine McPhee, centre, Marisha Wallace, left, and Laura Baldwin serve up a surprisingly gritty and moving performance
JOHAN PERSSON

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★★★★★
This Broadway musical centres on a woman named Jenna, played by Katharine McPhee whose extraordinary voice is a thing of wonder. Jenna makes 27 pies a day for the American diner where she works, including a daily special that she gets to name. So there’s Believe in Me Pie, the Mermaid Marshmallow Pie or You Are Never Seeing Me Again pie. When she becomes pregnant by her loutish husband, the dish of the day is Betrayed by My Eggs pie.

This musical took me by surprise: I expected something much less touching, gritty and moving. It has heart (not to mention pastry) to spare and McPhee’s voice has the lilt and lift that takes you away from yourself. She is woman, hear her soar.